Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin: A Gender-Neutral Take on Haute Horlogerie

For decades, the watch industry has loudly insisted on neatly separating designs into ‘men’s’ and ‘women’s’ lines, even though a watch is, at its core, one of the most gender-neutral objects you can wear. Case size, thickness, color and complication do not have biological preferences. In 2025, Vacheron Constantin leans into that reality with a subtle but meaningful shift: the new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models reposition one of the brand’s most refined complications as a genuinely gender-neutral proposition, without compromising an inch on haute horlogerie.

The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is not a new watch.

It first appeared at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022 as a compact, Geneva Seal-certified showpiece explicitly framed as a women’s perpetual calendar. At 36.5 mm across and just 8.43 mm thick, it landed squarely in what many collectors now call the ‘sweet-spot’ size – comfortable on slimmer wrists but perfectly wearable for anyone who prefers elegant proportions over wrist-dominating bulk. The debut models, however, doubled down on a traditionally feminine code: mother-of-pearl dials, liberal diamond setting and a visual language borrowed straight from high jewelry.

Collectors immediately noticed that beneath the pearls and stones there was a remarkably versatile blueprint

. A 36.5 mm round case with thin lugs, clean dial layout and a legendary ultra-thin perpetual calendar caliber can just as easily be a refined dress watch for a man, a daily luxury piece for a woman, or a shared watch in a couple’s collection. In enthusiast circles, you could already hear the refrain: the movement does not care about gender, and neither do the complications.

What really sets the tone is the styling.

The 2025 Shift: Same Complication, New Spirit

For 2025, Vacheron Constantin has decided to turn down the overt femininity and let the underlying design breathe. The new trio of Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin references keeps the compact case and the same Geneva Seal-approved mechanics, but swaps mother-of-pearl for classic silver-toned opaline dials and tones the diamonds down to a single, more assertive option.

The line-up now consists of three references. The first is a white gold model, ref. 4300T/000G-H106, with a silver opaline dial, rose-gold toned hands and hour markers, and a brown alligator leather strap. The second is the pink gold ref

. 4300T/000R-H107, leaning into warm hues that instantly read as traditional high watchmaking rather than ‘feminine’ or ‘masculine’. The third is the diamond-set ref. 4305T/000G-H135 in 18k white gold, where the bezel, lugs and crown are set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and even the white gold buckle carries its own stones. It is still the most ornate of the three, but the dial treatment and restrained color palette give it a cool, modern edge instead of the overtly jewel-like character of the 2022 pieces.

All three share the same silver-toned opaline dial that dramatically alters the watch’s personality. Gone are the shimmering mother-of-pearl surfaces that caught light like a piece of jewelry. In their place is a matte yet luminous finish that whispers rather than shouts. Subdials are subtly recessed and given a concentric circular texture, which visually anchors the calendar displays and improves legibility. The result is a dial that feels calmer, more architectural and far less anchored to any gender stereotype.

Cases That Blur Traditional Boundaries

On the wrist, the key to the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin’s neutrality is its size and thickness. At 36.5 mm in diameter by 8.43 mm thick, the watch sits delicately but not timidly. Enthusiasts who have long argued that the much-loved 36 mm Rolex Datejust evolved from ‘ladies’ size to universal icon will immediately recognize the same trajectory here. This is not a shrunken men’s watch or a supersized ladies’ piece; it is a carefully judged middle ground.

The cases are built in line with Vacheron Constantin’s highest finishing standards. Each model receives a flat sapphire crystal on the dial side and another on the caseback, allowing a clear view of the movement. The lugs curve gently to hug the wrist, and the signature stepped caseband of the Traditionnelle collection adds depth and shadow. Water resistance remains a modest 30 meters – enough for daily life, but you are not meant to swim with a perpetual calendar worth the price of a sports car.

The diamond-set ref. 4305T/000G-H135 features 76 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and lugs, plus a round diamond on the tip of the crown and an additional 17 stones on the white gold buckle. Yet thanks to the monochromatic white gold hands and indexes, paired with a dark blue strap, the watch reads more like a sophisticated evening piece than a glittering jewel. Meanwhile, the white and pink gold references go for completely smooth bezels and lugs, with classic Maltese Cross-signed crowns. On the wrist, these two in particular will simply register as beautifully sized high-end perpetual calendars to many collectors – whatever gender label the catalog once used.

A Dial for Everyone, Not Just for Her

Dial design is where the new models most clearly step away from their origin story. The basic architecture stays familiar: three registers for the calendar indications and a moonphase, thin polished indices around the perimeter, and dauphine hands for hours and minutes. But the choice of color, finish and small details creates a far more universal aesthetic.

The silver-toned opaline base, combined with the fine circular graining in the registers, gives a mild play of light without veering into shimmer. The calendar displays feel integrated rather than decorative. The moonphase disc mirrors the rest of the watch; on the diamond-set reference, the moon itself is in white gold, while on the pink and white gold non-diamond models it appears in pink gold. This subtle differentiation keeps each reference coherent without pushing them into gendered territory.

At a glance, the new dials are simply classical. They would look as natural under a shirt cuff in a boardroom as they would paired with a silk blouse or a minimalist turtleneck. Among enthusiasts, there is a sense that unisex watches are nothing new – many vintage pieces from the 1950s and 1960s were effectively neutral by today’s standards – and these new Traditionnelle models feel like a contemporary continuation of that idea.

The Caliber 1120 QP: Ultra-Thin Complication Royalty

Underneath the refined surface, Vacheron Constantin relies on one of its most celebrated mechanical engines: the in-house automatic Caliber 1120 QP. This movement is a perpetual calendar version of the ultra-thin base caliber that traces its roots back to some of the most storied thin automatic movements in Swiss watchmaking. Here, it is presented in a configuration that keeps track of the date, day, month, leap year cycle and moonphase without requiring manual correction until the year 2100, assuming it is kept wound.

The movement comprises 276 components and 36 jewels, beating at an unusual frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz) with a power reserve of around 40 hours. At just 4.05 mm thick, it is the reason Vacheron Constantin can maintain such a slim profile for a full perpetual calendar. Viewed through the sapphire caseback, the finishing is exactly what you expect from a Geneva Seal movement: carefully beveled bridges, Geneva stripes, polished screw heads and refined anglage.

One of the most eye-catching elements is the rotor. Vacheron uses a 22k gold outer weight attached to a skeletonized structure shaped like the brand’s Maltese Cross emblem.

It traces a smooth circle around the movement, revealing the architecture beneath as it turns. This signature rotor design is shared with the Traditionnelle’s siblings, such as the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, reinforcing the sense that this compact model is not an afterthought for women, but a fully fledged member of the brand’s most serious complication family.

From ‘Ladies’ Piece to Shared Icon

The most interesting part of this 2025 update is not a new complication or a radical design shift; it is the quiet change in positioning. A watch that debuted in 2022 as an explicitly female-focused perpetual calendar has effectively been reframed as a smaller, classic alternative to Vacheron’s larger perpetuals, open to anyone whose wrist and taste align with its dimensions.

In enthusiast discussions, you will increasingly hear the sentiment that ‘gender isn’t real’ when it comes to watches. Many collectors already wear vintage 34 mm and 36 mm pieces – sizes that marketing departments once relegated to women’s collections – without a second thought. The new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models feel perfectly in line with that culture shift. They do not scream unisex with marketing slogans; they simply present timeless proportions and let the wearer decide.

For some, the most surprising part is not this philosophical pivot but the stark reality of pricing. The two new non-diamond models in white and pink gold are both priced at around $100,000 USD. The diamond-set white gold reference climbs slightly higher, to approximately $102,000 USD. In an era where unisex steel sports watches can already command eye-watering sums, these prices push the Traditionnelle firmly into the realm of dream pieces for most mortals. Collectors joke that this is a watch you fantasize about but might not actually wear even if you could afford it, simply because of how delicate and precious it feels.

Value, Exclusivity and the Real Barrier

From a purely rational standpoint, the value proposition here is difficult to justify for anyone outside the usual high-complication clientele. This is not a stealth luxury piece; it is a rare, low-volume, hand-finished perpetual calendar from one of the oldest maisons in continuous operation. The price reflects that reality. While the move toward gender-neutral aesthetics removes one barrier – the feeling that certain high complications are reserved only for women or only for men – it leaves the biggest barrier untouched: access.

For seasoned collectors, however, the monetary shock is less surprising. Vacheron Constantin’s pricing has climbed since 2022, and modern perpetual calendars from the Holy Trinity of Swiss watchmaking have all followed a similar trajectory. Within that landscape, a 36.5 mm perpetual calendar with this level of finishing, carrying the Geneva Seal and powered by the Cal. 1120 QP, sits exactly where you would expect. The new aesthetic simply broadens the pool of people who might seriously consider it – whether they identify with traditional gender categories or not.

A Compact Alternative in the Vacheron Ecosystem

Seen within Vacheron Constantin’s broader catalog, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin now fills a clear role. As a smaller, more classical counterpart to the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the sportier Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, it offers the same mechanical prestige in a compact, dressy format that does not lean on pink dials or heavy diamond pavé to justify its case size.

The new white and pink gold models, in particular, are about as versatile as a high-end perpetual calendar can be. They are understated enough for daily office wear if you live a very careful life, yet refined enough to hold their own at black-tie events. The diamond-set reference sits one notch up the formality ladder, but thanks to its restrained dial it still feels more like a watch that happens to have diamonds than a piece of jewelry masquerading as a watch.

Conclusion: A Quietly Radical Perpetual Calendar

By reimagining the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with sober silver-toned dials and balanced colorways, Vacheron Constantin has done something quietly radical. It has taken a watch launched as an explicitly ‘for women’ complication, preserved its compact proportions and serious movement, and reframed it as a genuinely open, gender-neutral option. In doing so, it reflects the way real collectors already wear watches: ignoring gender labels, focusing instead on fit, design and emotional connection.

Whether you see these new references as your next grail or just a beautifully executed fantasy piece, they reinforce one clear message: great design and great watchmaking are not gendered. They simply are. And in the case of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, they are also very, very expensive.

Those who want to explore further details, strap options and the broader Traditionnelle collection can find more information on Vacheron Constantin’s official website or at authorized boutiques. For most of us, though, this trio will remain something else entirely: a reminder that the future of high horology is less about pink-and-blue marketing and more about timeless proportions and shared mechanical obsession.